YD 3202 w/Tecumseh OHH60 71131D: Wiring

[skim61]

Just bought a Yerf Dog 3202 with the stock OHH60. Runs well, but PO had no clue so after close inspection some major maintenance and some OEM parts replacement (air filter cover, throttle springs, drive belt, etc.) were required to get it back to original. This forum, You Tube, and some Kart supply places have been a wealth of information. However, I have not been able to find specific information on the motor wiring harness. There exists a steering wheel kill switch which is connected to one green wire coming from the motor on the starter side. However, there is a second green wire just hanging down the back under the carb with an orange wire nut at the end.

Can someone please give me more specific information on the wiring of the motor and what/where these wires are supposed to go coming from factory? Also, is there an alternator existing, or aftermarket for this motor?

[gofastman]

On these motors there are 2 switches. One goes in the fan shroud on the motor beside the air filter. The other is a remote switch (by the steering wheel). On both of these switches one side goes to ground. The other side tie into the green wire. Both of the green wires go to the same place on the ignition coil. I am assuming the engine switch is missing since you have one wire hanging. That's all they have in terms of wiring.

[skim61]

Thanks, GFM. I'll have to take off the shroud and see. My guess is the switch is there, but the wire got cut at some point and PO didn't know what is what.

Right now, trying to get the driven pulley off. Nut is off, but pulley is frozen to shaft. Tried a gear puller with no luck. Started sweating too much, and sprayed it with WD40 to sit overnight. Any suggestions?

[BlackScorpion]

Thanks, GFM. I'll have to take off the shroud and see. My guess is the switch is there, but the wire got cut at some point and PO didn't know what is what.

Right now, trying to get the driven pulley off. Nut is off, but pulley is frozen to shaft. Tried a gear puller with no luck. Started sweating too much, and sprayed it with WD40 to sit overnight. Any suggestions?

WD40 and some muscles are your best friends, if all fail you might try heating it up with a torch if you have one, you must take it nice and easy though not to melt anything important.

[gofastman]

That might be tough. Get the wd40 in as much as you can. I would try to get the puller on there pretty good holding tension on the pulley, while that's on try tapping the shaft on either side to maybe pop it loose while the puller pulls on it. If you do use heat go easy.

[BlackScorpion]

That might be tough. Get the wd40 in as much as you can. I would try to get the puller on there pretty good holding tension on the pulley, while that's on try tapping the shaft on either side to maybe pop it loose while the puller pulls on it. If you do use heat go easy.

Here's how one guy got his off that was stuck. Video

[skim61]

Hey, thanks for the replies again. Well, it's pretty stuck. Yesterday, after sitting overnight with WD40 blaster, tried again with hammer, puller, etc. Took the driven apart, so ther only thing left on the shaft is the back plate and center. Still not a budge. Went to Harbor Freight and spent $64 on tools and blaster.

This morning came to my senses...ordered the new jackshaft on the clutch plate for $42 from BMI.

4 bolts and Ill have it changed to the new jackshaft, bearings, and Comet. If I had not wasted the 2 days it would be here by now. Ohh, guess I'm off to Harbor Freight...Dammit where's that receipt?....maybe lost it and have to keep the tools.

Hmm...now what about that small sprocket? Can I change it to make the YD faster? I've seen 2 or 3 different toothed types. On to research that one...

BTW...you're both right...what's the deal, I thought this forum would be more active? Is everybody still out there on the trails without problems to fix?

[BlackScorpion]

Hey, thanks for the replies again. Well, it's pretty stuck. Yesterday, after sitting overnight with WD40 blaster, tried again with hammer, puller, etc. Took the driven apart, so ther only thing left on the shaft is the back plate and center. Still not a budge. Went to Harbor Freight and spent $64 on tools and blaster.

This morning came to my senses...ordered the new jackshaft on the clutch plate for $42 from BMI.

4 bolts and Ill have it changed to the new jackshaft, bearings, and Comet. If I had not wasted the 2 days it would be here by now. Ohh, guess I'm off to Harbor Freight...Dammit where's that receipt?....maybe lost it and have to keep the tools.

Hmm...now what about that small sprocket? Can I change it to make the YD faster? I've seen 2 or 3 different toothed types. On to research that one...

BTW...you're both right...what's the deal, I thought this forum would be more active? Is everybody still out there on the trails without problems to fix?

Ok if i remember correctly Smaller sprocket : More acceleration, less top speed and Bigger Sprocket: Less acceleration but more top speed .

This place has calm down a bit, seem gokarts are not as popular as they were before. Once they become popular again this place will be jumping, It's like everything else, the old repeats itself.

[skim61]

Just wanted to post an update on my cart issues and solutions. I received the new jackshaft with bearings and mounting plate, 9 tooth sprocket with shoulders on each side, complete torque convertor kit, and #40 chain.
Then I went on vacation .

Yesterday I went through a quite lengthy trial and error period of assembling/disassembling with shims and washers and whatnot to get everything lined up straight. I wasn't prepared for this as I expected bolt on parts to line up perfectly as the old ones did if they are true replacements. I'm still trying to figure out why I had to add a spacer between the sprocket and driven pulley so that the chain doesn't hit the back of the outer edge of the driven pulley. Which, in turn created the need to cut the key into two pieces to allow for the washer spacer. One more assembly/disassembly to find out the need for a spacer behind the drive pulley to line them up and everything was working fine.

After alot of sweat, my son got several good rides alone and with passengers. I went with him once around the field and it seemed the kart has a bit more climbing power than before with two of us aboard. Then the motor slid forward, the chain flew off, and we lost the master link. Guess I'll use the star washers between the Nylock and the motor plate. I'm guessing the new paint on the jackshaft plate has a film of oil on it. Especially because I can't find that OHV cover ANYWHERE, and on my motor of course the little vacuum hose connector is loose creating a small oil leak around where it goes into the cover. I tried copper gasket material, but the thing vibrates too much to keep a complete seal.

As for the wiring, I still haven't tried to figure out the other green wire with a wire nut on it hanging down by the carb. The kill switch is connected to the other green and black wires and works fine.

Recently I've heard, from someone close...this Kart is just like your Boat, huh? Always needs something...

And, turns out my son is not as into wrenches, parts, grease, etc. as I originally had hoped. He's more of a Paul Newman racer, "Get me when the car is ready to drive".
Guess there's a silver lining in that too...Ahhh, the solitude of Karting...ALONE TIME!

[BlackScorpion]

Sounds like me when i was starting out. Hang in there, before you know it, you'll be doing all sort of modifications ,,,,Alone to the kart.